The moment I drove off the ferry onto Kyushu’s coast for the first time, I knew this island was different from the Japan most tourists experience. The air smelled like sulfur and sea salt. The mountains in the distance were actual volcanoes, not the gentle forested hills of Honshu. Within two hours, I had passed through a town where steam rose from cracks in the sidewalk, eaten the best bowl of tonkotsu ramen of my life, and pulled over to stare at a caldera so massive it made me feel like I was on another planet. Kyushu is Japan’s adventure island, and a road trip is the best way to experience it.
Why Drive Kyushu Instead of Taking Trains
Kyushu has a decent train network, and the Shinkansen runs along the west coast from Fukuoka to Kagoshima. But the island’s best attractions, the volcanic landscapes, hidden onsen villages, and coastal roads, are often far from train stations. A rental car opens up the interior of the island in ways public transport simply cannot.
Renting a car in Japan is straightforward if you have an International Driving Permit (get one from your home country’s automobile association before your trip). Toyota Rent a Car, Times Car Rental, and Nippon Rent-a-Car all have offices at Fukuoka Airport and major JR stations. A compact car runs about 5,000 to 7,000 yen per day, and a standard kei car (the tiny ones) starts around 3,500 yen. Gas is roughly 170 to 180 yen per liter. Expressway tolls add up quickly, so I recommend getting the Kyushu Expressway Pass (KEP), which offers unlimited expressway travel for 3 to 7 days starting at around 5,000 yen for three days.
One important note: Japan drives on the left side of the road. If you are from a right-side driving country, take it slow the first day. Kyushu’s rural roads are forgiving, and traffic is light outside Fukuoka.
Day 1 to 2: Fukuoka, the Ramen Capital
Start in Fukuoka, Kyushu’s largest city and the undisputed capital of tonkotsu ramen. This rich, creamy, pork-bone broth style originated here, and you should eat it multiple times before leaving.
Shin Shin in Tenjin is my go-to for a classic bowl (ramen from 700 yen). The broth is milky and clean without being too heavy, and the thin noodles are perfect. Ichiran started here before becoming a global chain, and while some locals dismiss it as “tourist ramen,” the Nakasu honten (main shop) on the canal is still excellent (from 1,090 yen). For something more intense, Ganso Nagahama Ya near Nagahama fish market serves a rougher, more traditional style that has not changed in decades (from 600 yen).
Beyond ramen, Fukuoka’s yatai (outdoor food stalls) line the Naka River in Tenjin and Nakasu every evening. About 100 stalls operate nightly, serving yakitori, oden, gyoza, and of course ramen. Expect to spend 2,000 to 3,000 yen per person including a couple of drinks. The vibe is magical: tiny stools, steaming pots, cold beer, and strangers becoming friends over the counter.
Fukuoka is also home to incredible motsunabe (offal hot pot). Yoshida in Hakata has been serving it since the postwar era (sets from 1,600 yen per person). The combination of garlic, chili, and tender innards in a rich miso or soy broth is addictive.
Day 3: Beppu, the Steam City
Drive south from Fukuoka (about two hours via expressway) to Beppu, a city that sits atop so much geothermal activity that steam rises from manholes, backyards, and parking lots. Beppu produces more hot spring water than almost any other city on Earth.
The “Jigoku Meguri” (Hell Tour) is a circuit of seven dramatically colored hot springs. Umi Jigoku (Sea Hell) is a brilliant cobalt blue. Chinoike Jigoku (Blood Pond Hell) is deep red from iron oxide. A combination ticket for all seven costs 2,200 yen. They are a tourist attraction (you cannot bathe in them), but they are genuinely spectacular.
For actual bathing, Beppu has hundreds of public onsen. Takegawara Onsen, a gorgeous Meiji-era wooden bathhouse in the center of town, offers sand baths (sunaburo) where you lie in naturally heated volcanic sand while attendants bury you up to your neck. It costs just 1,500 yen and is one of the most unique onsen experiences in Japan. Afterward, soak in their regular hot spring bath (included in the price).
Hyotan Onsen on the outskirts of town has been rated as one of Japan’s best day-use facilities, with multiple outdoor pools, a waterfall bath, a sand bath, and a steam room, all for 900 yen. I have spent entire afternoons there.
Day 4 to 5: Mount Aso and the Caldera
From Beppu, drive southwest into the heart of Kyushu and the Aso region. Mount Aso is one of the world’s largest calderas, roughly 25 kilometers across. The first time you crest the ridge and look down into the vast green bowl with a smoking volcanic cone in the center, it takes your breath away.
If volcanic activity levels permit (check the Japan Meteorological Agency website before going), you can drive up to the Aso Nakadake crater. The ropeway was permanently closed after eruptions, but a shuttle bus and walking trail now take visitors near the crater rim. The sulfurous, bubbling turquoise lake inside the crater is otherworldly. Access is free when open, but closures are frequent due to gas emissions.
The Kusasenri grasslands at the base of Nakadake offer gentle hiking with panoramic caldera views. In spring and summer, the grass is electric green. You can ride horses here for about 1,500 yen for a short trail.
Stay in Kurokawa Onsen, a small hot spring village about 45 minutes north of Aso. Kurokawa is consistently ranked among Japan’s most atmospheric onsen towns. The village offers a “nyuto tegata” (bathing pass) for 1,500 yen that lets you visit three different ryokan baths. The outdoor rotenburo at Yamabiko Ryokan, nestled against a mossy cliff with a river below, is the kind of place that makes you wonder why you would ever go home. Room rates at traditional ryokan here start around 15,000 yen per person with dinner and breakfast included.
Day 6: Takachiho Gorge
About 90 minutes east of Aso, Takachiho Gorge is a narrow ravine carved by the Gokase River through volcanic basalt. Columnar basalt cliffs rise 80 to 100 meters on either side, and Manai Falls drops 17 meters into the gorge. You can rent rowboats at the bottom for 5,100 yen per boat (30 minutes, up to 3 people), and paddling beneath the waterfall with those towering cliffs on both sides is one of the most photogenic experiences on Kyushu.
Get there early. By 10 AM on weekends, the wait for boats can exceed two hours. On a weekday morning, I once had the gorge practically to myself.
Takachiho is also important in Japanese mythology as the place where the sun goddess Amaterasu hid in a cave, plunging the world into darkness. Amano Iwato Shrine marks the legendary spot, and the walk to the cave viewing area along the gorge is peaceful and beautiful. At Takachiho Shrine, evening kagura (sacred dance) performances are held nightly from 8 PM for 700 yen, retelling the mythological stories.
Day 7 to 8: Kagoshima and Sakurajima
Head south to Kagoshima, the southernmost major city on Kyushu, often called the “Naples of the East” for its bay, volcano, and relaxed Mediterranean feel. Sakurajima, the active volcano that dominates the bay, erupts hundreds of times a year, usually sending small ash plumes into the sky. You can see it from almost everywhere in the city.
Take the Sakurajima Ferry (200 yen, 15 minutes) from downtown Kagoshima to the volcano’s peninsula. Drive or bus around Sakurajima’s perimeter, stopping at the Yunohira Observatory (the highest public viewpoint at 373 meters) and the lava trails from the 1914 eruption. The Buried Torii Gate, where only the top of a shrine gate protrudes from meters of volcanic deposits, is a sobering reminder of the volcano’s power.
Back in Kagoshima, eat kurobuta (Berkshire black pork), the local specialty. Kurobuta tonkatsu at Kumasotei near Tenmonkan starts at 1,600 yen and the pork is noticeably sweeter and more tender than standard tonkatsu. For a splurge, Kagoshima’s satsuma-age (fried fish cake) at Tsukiage-an in the central arcade (pieces from 130 yen) is a perfect walking snack.
Kagoshima’s Sengan-en garden (1,000 yen) offers the classic view: a traditional strolling garden with Sakurajima framed perfectly across the bay. If timing works, watch the sunset from here.
Day 9 to 10: Yakushima or Ibusuki
From Kagoshima, you have two excellent options for your final days.
Yakushima: A UNESCO World Heritage island two hours south by high-speed ferry (around 10,300 yen round trip from Kagoshima). Yakushima’s ancient cedar forests, some trees over 3,000 years old, inspired the Studio Ghibli film Princess Mononoke. The Shiratani Unsuikyo ravine (500 yen) requires no advanced hiking skill and feels like walking through a Ghibli movie. The Jomon Sugi, a 7,200-year-old cedar, requires a full-day 10-hour hike. Leave your rental car in Kagoshima for this side trip.
Ibusuki: If you prefer to stay on the mainland, drive 90 minutes south of Kagoshima to Ibusuki, famous for its naturally heated sand baths. At Saraku Sand Bath (1,100 yen), you lie on the beach in a yukata while staff bury you in sand heated by underground volcanic steam. The sand reaches about 50 to 55 degrees Celsius and the warmth sinks deep into your muscles. Fifteen minutes of sand bathing followed by a regular onsen soak is the perfect way to end a Kyushu road trip.
Road Trip Quick Tips
Gas stations: Many in rural Kyushu are full-service. An attendant will fill your tank and clean your windows. Just say “regular mantan” (regular, fill it up).
Expressway rest areas (SA and PA): These are destinations in themselves. Meals, local specialties, clean restrooms, and sometimes onsen. Kirishima SA on the expressway between Kumamoto and Kagoshima has views of the volcanic range.
Navigation: Use Google Maps. It works perfectly for driving in Japan, including expressway routing and toll calculations.
Budget for 10 days: Rental car 5,000 yen per day, gas roughly 2,000 yen per day, KEP expressway pass 7,000 yen, accommodation 6,000 to 15,000 yen per night, food 3,000 to 5,000 yen per day. Total roughly 180,000 to 300,000 yen for two people.
Kyushu rewards the curious driver. Every turn reveals something unexpected: a steaming valley, a tiny ramen shop with five seats, a shrine clinging to a cliff, a farmer selling mikan from a roadside stand. Rent the car, load up Google Maps, and just go. The island has been waiting for you.
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